One of the advantages of reaching midlife is that we are finally finished with all those issues that make childhood and adolescence such a pain in the neck, such as needing set bedtimes as well as regular dental and eye checkups; having to worry about using protection during sex and about cigarette smoking; getting all those shots to prevent diseases and wearing helmets to prevent sports injuries; needing to eat all our vegetables and avoid sugar as well as not missing gym class. What a relief to let these issues fade right along with our memories of tetherball on the school playground!

Not so fast. Would it surprise you to know that you still have to be aware of each and every one of the above so-called "child/powerpoint presentations on adolescent health issues?

For instance, what about set bedtimes? The obvious reason that we needed enforced, regular bedtimes each night was so that we would get enough sleep. Being tired and sleepy the next day in school caused everything from lousy concentration to crabby moods. Now that we're in midlife, many of us believe that sleep is no longer an issue. This is not the case at all. It's still essential to our health and wellbeing. Recent studies have shown that not only do sleep disturbances often indicate a serious health problem, but that lack of sleep can actually cause health problems, such as weight gain. Polls have shown that nearly two thirds of adults over the age of sixty-five have sleep complaints, but that less than 15 per cent of them have been formally diagnosed with a sleep problem. Why? Because we don't mention sleep problems to our health care providers. Our mothers were right -- we still need to be concerned about our bedtimes.

Once we've gotten the glasses we need and all our baby teeth are gone, we no longer need to get regular eye and dental checkups as we did in our younger years, right? Again -- no. Although our vision does remain stable from young adulthood until we need bifocals, there are common eye diseases that begin to occur in midlife, and that can lead to blindness if not diagnosed. And even though we no longer have our baby teeth, other dental issues take the forefront upon reaching midlife, such as gum inflammation which has been shown to be associated with diabetes and heart disease. So, continued regular dental and eye checks are as important as in our younger years.

And what about sex at midlife and beyond? We've moved from groping and being groped in the backseat of the car to more sophisticated maneuvers in a comfortable bed, and finally, finally no longer have to worry about pregnancy. So we don't need protection; or so many of us think. Although it's true that once menopause arrives one can't get pregnant (warning: make sure you have completed menopause before assuming this as diagnosing menopause can be tricky), protection is still needed during sex because of sexually transmitted infections (STIs). Yes, we can still get those, and in some cases are even more prone to becoming infected after menopause, even after a hysterectomy. And even though we're past the childbearing years and our reproductive organs seem to have no further use, we still need regular pelvic exams and Pap smears. It is also important at that exam to discuss with our healthcare providers the need for testing for STIs; if there is a new partner or the worry that the current partner is not monogamous, this testing is a must powerpoint presentations on adolescent health.

STIs are not the only threat held over from our adolescent years; so is cigarette smoking. Many women in midlife think that there is no reason to stop smoking cigarettes at this age, since they wrongly assume that the damage is already done from all the prior years of smoking. This is not the case. No matter how many years one has smoked, stopping can prevent further damage to the heart, blood vessels, and lungs, and in some cases can reverse some of that damage.

Also relevant to the lungs is the fact that asthma can begin in midlife, where once it was thought to only begin in childhood. The two major causes seem to be occupational exposure to substances that damage the lungs, and the recreational exposure to air pollution by adults who run predominantly outside. So, a new onset of shortness of breath at this age -- even if it occurs only with exercise -- does not necessarily mean heart disease; remember that we can develop asthma now.

Did you think you were finished with all those horrible shots you had to have in childhood and adolescence? Sorry, you're not. There is a recommended immunization schedule for adults in midlife and beyond, just as there are for children. At certain ages over 50 and at certain intervals, you'll need shots against the flu, certain types of pneumonia, tetanus, and in some instances, shingles and hepatitis. Ask your primary care provider about these.

And did you pack away your helmet when you gave away your bike with training wheels? Probably ok to have done this since now you will need a bigger size helmet. But you do need a helmet. A recent report by the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission stated that sports-related injuries in the Baby Boomer population was on the rise, with over 1 million injuries in this age group in 1998 alone, most of the injuries being due to bicycling and basketball. The same report said that the many head injuries associated with bicycling were probably due to the fact that Baby Boomers use helmets less than younger people do.

The fact that exercise and proper nutrition are as important in midlife and beyond as in childhood may not come as a surprise. Regular exercise at this age has been shown to increase longevity and wellbeing, postpone and possibly prevent dementia, strokes, heart disease, and diabetes, and aid in the treatment of depression. Important to know as well is that several different types of regular exercise are recommended at this age, including aerobic (cardio) exercise, weight-bearing exercise or strength training, and exercises to improve balance and flexibility.

What we eat as we get older is every bit as important as it was in our younger years. One particular healthy way of eating, the Mediterranean diet, has been shown to stave off dementia, prevent heart disease and diabetes, maintain a healthy cholesterol level, and improve longevity. One study showed that this diet even improved sexual function in certain women! This diet is exactly as expected given its name: lots of natural whole foods, like vegetables, fruits, and nuts, lots of fish and olive oil, moderate amounts of wine, and limited amounts of foods containing refined sugar. Controlling the portions of the foods we eat is even more important at this age. Our metabolic rate decreases with age, making it easier to gain weight while eating the same amounts of food as in our younger years.

So, as you are rummaging through your mother's attic looking at your old dolls, baseball bat and Ouija Board, and breathing a sigh of relief that you no longer have to worry about being picked for a baseball team or that your best friend copied your paper doll's dress, don’t get lulled into complacency about your health. Although you once may have thought that taking care of yourself health-wise would get easier as you get older, you know now that that's not true. Make your appointments for regular checkups, get more than 5 hours of sleep a night, use protection when having sex, particularly with a new partner, stop smoking no matter how old you are, get the recommended immunizations, be careful and wear your helmet and seatbelts, and exercise regularly and eat well. Your mother’s recommendations from your childhood continue to apply!

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Because some babies like to feed differently than others, and because you'll want both your baby and yourself to be comfortable in different surroundings and situations, these are three best breast world health org feeding positions that I recommend.

The Cradle position

You may or may not need pillows for the Cradle position. First, place your baby on your lap with your baby's head at the breast you intend to feed from. If your baby's mouth is level with your nipple then you should not need to use a pillow. If you need a pillow find one that allows your nipple and baby's mouth to be level with one another.

Once you feel that you have the right height you can try this position. If you're feeding off your left breast, place your right arm up your baby's back and support your baby's head. With your left hand express a little bit of breast milk. It may help to a massage your breast first. Also have a wet nipple area can help to save your nipples getting sore.

Then place your thumb at the top of your areola and your second figure underneath your areola. Think of it as 6 o'clock on a clock face. Big hand at the 12 and small hand at the 6. Doing this helps to form your breast better for your baby get a better mouthful of your breast. Now your baby's nose should be directly across from your nipple. Keep expressing a little breast milk to interest your baby to feed. When your baby opens his or her mouth wide quickly but gently move your baby's head towards nipple. Do not be forceful; it could put your baby off.

The Rugby (or "Football") position.

Some babies prefer to feed from one side. The best way to deal with this is to use the Ruby position (sometimes called the "Football" position). For example, say your baby likes to only feed on your right side and will not feed from the left breast. Place a pillows (more than one if you need to) on your left side under your arm. Again, check the level of your nipple and your baby's mouth as we discussed above.

Place your baby on the pillows and lie him or her on their side. Check where your breast is in relation to where your baby is lying. If you have to maneuver your breast to your baby then you will struggle to feed comfortably. This is where a breast feeding pillow can come in handy, or an arrangement of pillows on your lap; whatever works for you to position your baby properly.

Do the same thing as described in the Cradle position, but with the baby on your left side, using your left arm to support your baby's body and head. Form your breast as described in the Cradle position. This position makes your baby feel like he or she is feeding off your right breast instead of your left.

The lying down position

This position is easy on both sides, and is similar to the other positions. We are going to try world health org feeding off our right side this time. So we are lying on our right side with your baby lying on his or her side so facing you. Adjust your position until your baby is lying where he or she can best reach your breast. Support you baby's body and head with your right arm. Use your left hand to form your right breast. As with the other two positions, wait until your baby has a wide mouth before offering your breast.

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A horse's nutritional requirements and his digestive system have not changed since the time he was first domesticated thousands of years ago. However, due to a lack of knowledge, convenience considerations and an over-zealous adoption of the scientific claims of the feed industry, the way we feed a horse has changed dramatically. Often, these methods contradict what natural horsemanship tells us about world health org feeding and result in health problems for the horse and management problems for owner.

Certain principles of natural horsemanship can be applied to choosing a proper feeding program for the horse. Just as we studied aspects of horse physiology and psychology when approaching training techniques, it is beneficial to think in these terms when we decide how to feed our horses. This will tell us both what to feed and how to feed.

It doesn't take an expert in natural horsemanship or equine nutrition to understand that feeding flakes of alfalfa and grain supplements twice a day to a horse in a stall is not what Mother Nature intended. Indeed, that approach completely ignores a few basic principles that every horse owner should know about their four-legged charges.

A horse's digestive system is designed to obtain the maximum nutritional benefit from a diet of high-fiber and low-energy grasses. The foundation of a healthy, natural diet for a modern, domesticated horse is grass and grass hay. A horse in his natural environment will spend many hours a day grazing. Most experts say that a horse needs to consume at least 1.5 - 2 lb. of good quality hay and grain for every 100 lbs of body weight. Much will depend upon the metabolism of the horse. Horses that are heavily worked, pregnant and lactating mares will consume up to 3 lbs of dry matter for every 100 lbs. of body weight.

Grass hay is much preferable to alfalfa for the bulk for the horse's diet for several reasons. Alfalfa is a very rich or "hot" feed for the horse. It contains approximately 50% more protein and energy per pound than grass hay. Its phosphorous to calcium ratio is also too high for a horse's requirements. When fed with grain, as alfalfa often is, numerous digestive problems including colic may result. Alfalfa may be fed but only in small quantities almost as a supplement, not as the predominant feed component.

Not all hay is the same. The nutritional content of hay depends not only on the variety of grass grown, but also on the soil and amount and type of fertilizer used. Hay quality also can vary and should be examined prior to purchasing. Good hay exhibits the following qualities:

1. Should be leafy as opposed to containing too many stems. Most of hay's protein is contained in the leaves.

2. Good-quality hay should exhibit a light green color. If it is too yellow or brown, it might have been harvested too late and may not contain proper nutrients.

3. The hay should smell fresh and sweet. Hay that smells moldy or musty should be avoided. Feeding moldy hay can result in colic.

4. Check for weeds and other non-hay matter. Good horse hay should contain a bare minimum of weeds, sticks and debris.

Unfortunately, hay comes without supermarket labels specifying nutritional content, but often a reputable hay supplier will have a laboratory analysis available for a particular cutting of hay he is selling. Parameters to look for include:

1. Moisture: usually averages around 10%. Higher than 13% may result in palatability problems and even mold proliferation.

2. Crude protein: Legume hay will run 20% or more. High quality grass hay might run as high as 12-15%. A minimum should be at least 8%.

3. Digestible energy (DE): This is an estimate of the amount of energy available to the horse from the hay. This figure will vary depending upon the stage of growth at which the grass was cut and harvested. Young grass will have a higher DE. As the crop matures, DE decreases as the lignin content increases. A DE reading of less than 1.65 Mcal/kilogram indicates a high level of indigestibility and should not be fed to horses. This could cause impaction colic.

4. Acid detergent fibre (ADF: Indicates the digestibility of fiber in the hay. ADF levels above 45% indicate poor nutritional levels, while values less than 31% indicate excellent quality hay.

When horses ran wild, their food supply consisted of different kinds of grasses grown in one pasture or field. Today we have lost that natural variety. An improved pasture is more than likely to contain just one variety of hay grass. Feeding just one type of hay can limit the nutritional value of the horse's ration, especially trace minerals. Several different kinds of hay, ideally, should be fed. This will not only provide a more balanced diet but will also vary taste and texture characteristics of the feed as well.

A horse will also nibble eagerly on all kinds of vegetable matter. A good idea is to provide your horse with tree branches with leaves to chew on. He will not only be able to derive needed nutrients but will use his teeth and wear them down naturally. A horse's teeth are continually growing, and because of domestication and modern feeding techniques, usually need to be rasped down once a year. In the wild the horse is apt to feed in such a way that the growth of his teeth is naturally kept under control.

In addition to being perfectly suited to extracting maximum nutritional value from grasses, a horse's digestive system has other requirements which are often ignored by owners. The relatively small size of the stomach limits the amount of feed that can be safely consumed at one time. A horse is unable to vomit or belch. Eating a large volume of hay and grain concentrate twice a day, as most horses do, can be unhealthy and even dangerous. A horse should eat small amounts, many times a day.

One of the unique features of the horse's digestive system is that even though he has but one stomach compartment, as opposed to ruminants like cows, there is a large microbial population in the cecum and colon. These microbes have the ability to break down and utilize the nutrients contained in forage. The peculiar shape of the colon which bends back upon itself numerous times reduces the rate at which digested food is able to pass. This allows more efficient utilization of roughages in the horse's feed, but also can cause digestive problems when the horse is not fed correctly.

If you observe a horse eating in a barn situation, you can readily see that he prefers to eat off the ground. Most feeders require a horse to eat with their necks extended and their heads raised. This is an unnatural position for a horse to eat. Grass particles and debris fall back into his face and eyes. The horse cannot properly chew his food, and respiratory problems can result when the horse constantly inhales dust from the hay. It's better to place hay on the ground in small amounts and in different places.

A diet of high-quality grass and hay should provide all the energy and protein needs non-working horses require. However, if a horse is in training, shows in performance classes or is ridden frequently, you might want to supplement with grain. Although this might be considered a departure from a purely natural approach to feeding, riding and working a horse is a complete departure from what nature intended as well.

In his natural environment as a wild, prey animal, a horse consumed very little grain. His very limited grain consumption took place in the fall from natural grasses that had gone to seed. This probably served to put on extra weight before winter. However, our energy demands on a horse have changed nutritional demands on him as well.

If a horse needs more energy, fat and protein in his diet than he is receiving from a grass and hay-based diet, there are several ways you can get him that additional nutrition. It's a good idea to avoid feeding the quantity of sugar and molasses present in many commercial sweet feeds. Just as in humans, the ingestion of large amounts of sugar can play havoc with the horse's insulin-regulating mechanism. Compounded grain products may also contain other undesirable ingredients such as fish and animal by-products.

You can get your horse the extra energy he needs through supplementing with rice and wheat bran or oats and barley. Limit the horse's intake of prepared rations of grain except for pregnant and lactating mares and young foals. We want to feed naturally but we don't want to reject out of hand advances in feed science. Educate yourself and choose supplements based on your horse's true needs. Do not overfeed grain, however.

Natural supplements that are useful to include in a horse's daily ration include flaxseed. Flaxseed is a good source for important Omega-3 fatty acids that are so important in human diets too. Omega-3 fatty acids can play a role in alleviating chronic inflammation and strengthen the immune system. They can improve the condition of a horse's coat and hooves.

Food-grade diatomaceous earth (DE) supplements is a lesser-known source of trace minerals, internal and external parasite control, improved feed utilization and fly control. DE is a desiccant and can be used as a feed supplement or can be spread around stalls and the barn and will kill 75% of flies, fleas and mites that come into contact with it. Horse owners who use DE religiously claim that world health org feeding DE to their foals and grown horses eliminates the need for chemical worming.

Horses themselves can be a judge of what trace minerals they need to consume. Have you ever seen a horse digging in the ground and begin to lick some special rock they've found? He seems to know instinctively what minerals he is lacking and where he can get them. This probably pertains more to a wild and varied environment than to a controlled and limited pasture environment. For that reason, it is a good idea to provide a free-choice salt and trace mineral product especially formulated for horses.

When horses are first offered this feeding option, they will initially consume a considerable amount but begin self-regulating very quickly. A supply of salt is essential to a horse's health and well-being. In the wintertime salt should be manually added to a horse's feed in order to ensure that he drinks the proper amount of water. Be sure to make available to the horse an unlimited supply of fresh, clean water.

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You are bringing your new bundle of joy home finally. You have done your research, know you have the right breed and you have complete faith in the breeder of your new pup. You have visited the litter each week to watch the pups develop, bought all the toys and the crate the breeder recommended and you already have her signed up for puppy kindergarten. Now for the most difficult decision - what do you feed her?

Puppies need special diets to grow strong and healthy and thankfully, there are many varieties to choose from that are designed to fit the needs of our furry bundles of joy! There is small dog puppy food, regular puppy food and foods for large and giant breed pups. Each is formulated a little differently - small breed puppy food is calorie dense with a physical size that matches their diminutive mouths. Large and giant breed dog food is designed to allow for slow, steady growth which helps build strong and healthy bones and joints. Added nutrient are also designed to regulate joint health since so many of these breeds are plagued by hip dysplasia as well as back, elbow and knee issues.

The first person to ask for a recommendation on what to world health org feeding your new pup is the breeder. They know their breed best and usually have the best intentions for the health and happiness of both their puppies and their new owners. However, do not take their word as gospel - sometimes they are forced to buy a lesser quality food then what would normally be recommended because of the sheer cost of feeding a litter of pups as well as possibly a full kennel of adult dogs. No matter what, however, have a small bag of the same food waiting at home for the day the pup arrives - you do not want to make a sudden switch of food ever with a dog but it can be catastrophic for a new pup! Housetraining is almost impossible to start if you are also dealing with a bad case of diarrhea. A change in food should always be done gradually over a number of days with each day decreasing the amount of the old food while simultaneously increasing the quantity of new food. After five to seven days, the pup should be on the new food entirely with little to no adverse affect on their bowels.

All dogs thrive on routine and your new pup is no exception! Young pups should be fed at least three times a day but preferably four if possible, at least for the first couple of weeks they are home with you. Make sure you feed them at the same time each day and once they are finished eating, put them outside for a poop - within fifteen minutes of eating, you will be rewarded with a step towards a perfectly housetrained puppy!

How much to feed the pup is the most common question asked a veterinarian. Double check with your breeder before you bring the puppy home and also check the recommendations listed on the dog food bag. Usually it is weight based so make sure you have an overall idea of what your pup weighs now as well as what they will weigh as an adult.

A rule of thumb is to watch your puppy's waistline and growth spurts. A skinny puppy is a healthy puppy because it puts less stress on the still forming skeletal system. You do not want to see all the ribs but there is no harm in seeing the last one or at least a hint that there could be ribs under a thin layer of pudge and the thick puppy coat. Like human children, pups grow in spurts and stops. Usually they will sleep more and eat ravenously when they are in a growth spurt and our inclination is to feed them until they stop eating. Don't! Pups, especially large and giant breeds, are healthiest if they grow at a slow and steady pace and by marginally restricting their food, you are making sure the growth spurts do not get out of hand. Large and giant breed puppy food helps keep the growth spurts to a minimum as well.

The biggest mistake new owners make is leaving the food down until the puppy has cleaned his plate and/or add tasty morsels to the dish until the pup concedes to eat the kibble. This actually teaches them bad puppy manners and no one wants that! Give yourself a break - never add tidbits to the dish and only leave the food on the ground for twenty minutes. If they have not finished their plate after that time, pick it up and do not put it on the floor again until the next scheduled feeding. They soon learn to finish their plate quickly and that they are not going to get something tastier if they 'hold out' for better! No puppy will starve themselves to death and they will eventually eat their entire meal as long as you are strong and not give in to those adorable puppy eyes!

World health org feeding a puppy is not difficult but it does take a bit of knowledge and some diligence on your part. Keep your puppy at a healthy weight, have them dewormed regularly and make sure you have fun with your new ball of fur - puppyhood lasts only a short time and it will be over before you know it!

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Pigs are intelligent, gregarious, greedy and hedonistic. They are also curious. Being both intelligent and curious can soon prove problematic for those of you who are thinking about keeping pet pigs. This is because they will soon find a way to escape their enclosures, no matter how long you have spent making sure they stay in! Once they have made the first great escape they will try again, and again and again. So they are determined little beasts but they will also give you much pleasure.

Pigs love attention and will bask in being spoken to, enjoy a scratch behind the ear and a good scrub down with a brush. However, never slap a pig on the rear end, or on the shoulders. Your pet pig will hate this, will be unforgiving to those who attempt this, and will sulk for days, if not weeks.

Pet Pigs: A Word of Warning

Keeping pigs as pets can be fun, but you also need to be careful with them when you feed them. Many a person can relate a tale of losing fingers to pigs by leaving their hands a little too long in the trough when spilling out the feed. A pig is a voracious eater and being an omnivore will eat virtually anything, including your hand if it is anywhere near his feed! So exercise caution here.

Pet Pigs: Diet

Pigs are also excellent producers, have large litters which they are fairly good at in looking after, which makes them a great source of extra income if you are thinking of selling off the piglets from your pet pigs. They are also good as work animals because their smelling abilities make them ideal for sniffing out black gold; truffles. If you don't have truffles don't despair as you can use your pig as nature's plough for fields that need turning over. In foraging for roots and food beneath the ground they use their strong snouts to amazing depths in the soil and make subsequent cultivation of that land very much easier. However, if you find that they are really damaging the land that you have put them on this foraging activity can be curtailed by having a ring or two inserted into the edge of their snouts. Although this is a fairly painless process it should be carried out while the pigs are fairly young. They love to eat excess whey milk after you have made your cheese, they will also eat vegetable scraps and spent veggie crops, and fallen fruit from the orchards.

Pet Pigs: Choosing What to Buy and Why?

Pigs come in all shapes, colours and sizes and different breeds result in different temperaments. The first thing you should be deciding on is why you want to keep pigs for pets in the first place. After that it then gives you direction as to which pig breed would better fit your needs and the appropriate pig care your pigs would then receive.

Pink-skinned pigs like the one in the picture above suffer terribly from sunburn, and so if you don't have any kind of natural or manmade shelter for this type of pig, then this breed would be unsuitable for you. Some pure breeds are coloured, like the red Tamworth and Duroc and black pigmented Berkshire and Large Black. The Saddleback and Hampshire are also black breeds but carry a distinctive white belt over the shoulders and down the front legs. Potbelly pigs are another firm favourite for pigs as pets.

Few people realize just how big pigs can grow. Your pet pig could end up weighing in excess of 200 kilo grams! This is another reason why you need to make sure that those fences are strong! If you choose a miniature pig as a pet their mature weight range could be around 20 - 50 kilo grams. Still no featherweight!

Your pet pigs are sociable animals and therefore would prefer to be in a small group rather than being on its own. Therefore it is advisable to get more than one so that they can keep each other company. You will also find in doing this, that your pigs will get up to less mischief as they will be less bored. However, if you do decide to only have one pig as a pet, there are some advantages. Firstly looking after one pig means that they become easier to manage, especially if this is your first pig. There will be no jostling for position during meal times or bullying and fighting with other pigs. If you buy a single pig just remember to give it lots of love and attention that prevent it from being bored, lonely and naughty.

Pet Pigs: Choosing which sex to buy

If you are thinking of having pigs for pets you are probably wondering which sex you should buy. Male pigs that have not been castrated are best left as breeders rather than that makes them very unsuitable. If you decide on a male pig, it should be castrated. Female pigs make the best pets whether or not she has had a litter.

Pet Pigs: Purchasing your first pet pig

What should you be looking for when you are about to purchase your first pet pig? First of all you should check with your local municipal council to see if you are allowed to keep a pig in your area. After you have passed that important hurdle the next step is to find yourself a reputable breeder who will be there for you for after sales advice and general advice on pig care. Do not buy pigs from stockyard sales or at auctions where as a novice you would not know if the animal was sound and healthy.

In order for you to bond with your pig and vice versa you should be looking for a piglet. Look for one that has no signs of ill world health org feeding. It should be active, have bright eyes with a moist nose and a shiny coat. The body should be long and slightly arched, the chest wide and sides slightly rounded. The legs should be strong and well placed with short and well-maintained toenails. Check the number of teats that the pig has regardless of its gender. You are looking for 12-14 evenly distributed and well shaped teats. After looking at the physical aspects of your future pet pig you should be looking at its temperament. If it looks at all aggressive, is snapping at its siblings and other pigs and seems generally a bit on the wild side, look for another that is better natured.

Pet Pigs: Pig Care and Feeding

When you are purchasing your pet pig ask the breeder what they have been feeding them and how much. This will give you a baseline to work off, and any changes or additions to the diet should be made slowly. The basic diet for a pig would be to feed them a combination of household scraps or old crops from your vegetable garden or orchard combined with pig feed or grain. On average a pig should be given about 2 kilo grams of pig feed or grain a day, and less if you are supplementing with household or garden scraps. Pigs will eat almost anything, as mentioned earlier. Things that they will not eat however are citrus fruit, capsicums, onions, pineapples and some brassicas. The feed can be given either all at once during the day, or split into two and fed morning or evening. Fresh, clean water should be available to your pet pigs at all times, and make sure that the troughs that you are using a strong. Concrete troughs that are heavy and unmoveable are ideal.

Pet Pigs: Housing for your pig

Pigs are often maligned as dirty, smelly, unattractive beasts. Nothing could be further from the truth. Yes, they love to have the odd wallow in the mud bath, but then so do elephants and warthogs, and they have not been tarred with the same brush. Your pig will enjoy a bed of deep, clean straw or litter. If there are other pigs present they will often be seen cuddling up to each other in these situations. They are basically very clean animals, and will not urinate or defecate on their bedding, but will do so in a corner of their pen, away from their bedding.

They also hate extreme weather conditions, be it cold winds and draughts or soaring temperatures and humidity. So ensure that their pens are draught-free and you are able to get a good circulation of air when temperatures rise. Pigs will tolerate temperatures between 12-26°C. Anything, either side of these temperatures, and your pet pig will be in distress. This is why in hot weather those mud baths are so necessary for your pig to be able to cool down as he does not have the ability to do so through sweating.

Having said all that, a simple three-sided shed is all that is needed to keep your pig happy, as long as it faces away from draughts and prevailing winds. Each animal should have about 8 square feet of space and the floor finish should be a concrete screed that has been roughly finished so that your pig has sure footing at all times. There should also be an area in front of his pen that is adequately fenced off that is also cemented to prevent muddy and smelly conditions. Here the pigs can sun themselves when they need to, get some exercise and relieve themselves.

We have already touched on making sure that your pigpen is secure, but this cannot be over-emphasised. If your pig notices just a slight weakness in the fencing he will be out. And for those of us who have had to catch a pig we all know that it one of those impossible tasks that quickly degenerates into something from Keystone Cops! One of the best options is to go with a breeze-block wall around the shed with a sturdy pig-proof gate. Having wire fencing, unless it is electrified, which is expensive, really is not worth the effort as it is largely ineffectual.

Pet Pigs: Keeping your pig in your house

There are people who keep pigs in their homes quite successfully. It may not be everyone's choice of household pet, even for those who may decide on a miniature pig soon realize that they can get very big. However, for those who have chosen this option your pig is easily trainable with regards to using a cat litter tray. Pigs are the 5th most intelligent animals in the world health org feeding, and therefore getting them to use a cat litter tray is no different to training a cat or a dog. You use the same methods. Start with some newspaper and move it closer to the litter box until the box is being used. Remember though that the conventional cat litter box it too high for your pig. You will need something that is more shallow, more like 2 inches, and your will need to find these trays or suitable receptacles from your local hardware store. They will get used to walking with a lead and harness if you start with them at an early age.

Pet Pigs: Enjoying your new pet

Keeping a pig as a pet is great fun and they really do make wonderful pets. Each has a distinctive personality and you will soon see this after bringing your pig home and getting to know it. If you have the right type of housing, keep the litter clean and provide the right food and exercise for your pig, you will have a really rewarding experience. Pigs are generally hardy and have few ailments and are very good at adapting to new environments. So enjoy your new pet, give it lots of love and attention and you will be loved in return.

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For some reason, people seem to think the only food suitable for ducks is bread, breadcrumbs or similar specimens of food. This is actually not true, as like any other living being, ducks need to be eating a consistently balanced diet.

There is nothing wrong with human eating bread, or eating bread on a regular basis, but the necessity for a range of nutrients through a range of foods, ducks are by no means any different to us and need a similar diet.

A typical diet for both humans and world health org feeding of course ducks consists of a range of nutrients inclusive of proteins, carbohydrates, fats, minerals and vitamins, the benefit of ducks obtaining these nutrients is extremely important. In fact it doesn't matter whether it's a duck, human, goose and so on, all living beings need a range of nutrients to sustainability live.

The fact that people throw bread to ducks means they are relying on one source of nutrient, which of course, in the case of bread, is carbohydrate. This can seem to problems, but don't worry too much; ducks will obviously find other sources of food in between there daily feed at the local parks!

One thing to be aware of is that ducks aren't particularly good world health org feeding at swallowing their food, hence why some people soak the bread, as it has been heard of for ducks to choke to death trying to swallow bread. Another important factor to consider is moldy bread. Let's face it, if you don't want to eat it because it might disagree slightly with your digestive system, then do you think they would?

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Some people consider having an exotic pet as a companion in the home. For example a pet snake, Snakes are relatively easy to care for, but special handling and maintenance is necessary for your safety as well as theirs. A proper care must be enforce to make sure such incidents don't happen.

Aside from making the home similar to the habitat of the snakes, the most important thing is giving the right food. Should you feed your pet snake pre killed prey or live prey?

For your pet snake, world health org feeding pre killed prey is recommended. A live prey can inflict some serious wounds on a snake in self defense. Also if your pet snake unable to quickly kill a live prey item, because hesitates or is not hungry, the snake is the one who might end up injured. Even a small mouse can cause injury to a snake.

World health org feeding killed prey also let you to buy frozen prey items and keep them in the freezer. It will be easier for you as you have the proper sized prey on hand at all times. Buying the live prey every time your pet snake needs to eat or raising the prey by your own will be more expensive and wasting the time. Many pet stores sell frozen prey or fresh killed prey which you can then freeze for later.

If your snake is eating live prey, you need to start out by offering fresh killed prey at first. Frozen prey need to be completely thawed and warmed slightly before feeding. Defrost it in cold water, not at room temperature. Don't hold prey with your fingers, dangling and wiggling the prey with tongs to entice the snake to take the prey.If your snake still unwilling to eat, you can try dipping the prey in chicken broth, or puncturing the skull of the prey to expose brain.

The size of the prey

A snake should be fed a size of prey that is about the same size around snake's body at the widest point. Meaning that as your snake grows; you need to adjust the size of prey fed to the snake to accommodate the snake's increasing size.To find the right size of prey on the pet stores, simply use a piece of string to take the measurement around your pet snake at the widest part of its body then take the string cut to the pet store. So you can do a quick check of the circumference of the prey available to find the best match. It doesn't have to be an exact measurement. Little bit smaller or slightly larger prey is fine too and a bit of variety never hurts.

A snake have unique jaws that allow them to swallow the prey that is larger than their head, but your pet snake may have difficulties to digesting overly large prey, resulting in regurgitation. This is considered to be a waste of money since your pet snake will just spit it out after.

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